Bogotá

In 1538, the Spanish founded Sante Fe de Bogotá on the site of the indigenous Muisca town of Bacatá. The city lies at 8,600’, nestled against the eastern ridge of the Andes Mountains, which runs north-south along the city’s east side.

Streams running down from this eastern ridge flow through Bogota to the west. There are many parks integrated into the city, paralleling these streams. Much of the city is strikingly lush and green.

Over 10 million people live in Bogotá; the city is huge. There are Chinese cars everywhere; a glimpse of the future. The violence of the past, of armed guerrilla and anti-guerrilla paramilitary forces, of narco cartels, still lingers in recent memory; some groups are still active and effectively control parts of the country. No Colombian family is untouched by loss from decades of violence. But a 2016 agreement ended conflict with the main armed group, FARC (Revolutionary Armed Forces of Colombia). Although security issues persist, and many reforms and commitments remain unfulfilled, the country has less violence than in previous decades.

On Christmas Day, my friend Tim arrived from St. Petersburg, and we spent the next week exploring more. We flew home New Years Eve, spotting the fireworks from Sarasota to Tampa out the window of our American Airlines connecting flight from Miami, which landed just before midnight.

Museums

The indigenous Muisca people were skilled metalworkers in gold, silver, platinum and copper. A must-see is the Museo del Oro (Gold Museum), which houses a premier collection of pre-Columbian artifacts including intricate gold pieces.

The most valuable and unique piece is the Muisca Raft, depicting the initiation of a new Muisca Zipa, or chief, on the waters of Lake Guavavita. This piece was made in one casting, using the lost wax method. The new Zipa, and attendants, floated into the middle of the lake. The new Zipa, who had been coated in honey and dusted with gold powder, dove into the lake. The Muisca people, assembled around the lake with their backs to him, turned to the lake after he dove in, and in turn tossed pieces made of gold into the waters.

Many of those pieces are now on display at the Museum.

The most well-known contemporary Colombian artist is Fernando Botero (1932-2023). The Botero Museum houses his collection of his own paintings and sculpture. It also has incredible pieces from other artists, from the impressionists to his own contemporaries, which he collected over his lifetime. It’s a stunning museum on both counts.

Street art is a big part of Bogotá’s charm. In recent decades, the city has actively encouraged artists to paint; most construction sites, and there are many in today’s Bogotá, have fences with signs encouraging artists to use them for their work. The most famous site for street art is in La Candelaria, the oldest part of Bogotá, not far from the Botero and Gold Museums.

The Museo Nacional de Colombia tells the country’s history through art and artifacts. It was founded in 1823, making it the city’s oldest museum. It has some works by prominent artists, including Botero, but the focus is on history.

I found film footage of El Bogotazo, the riots that erupted in response to the 1948 murder of popular Liberal politician Jorge Gaitán, particularly compelling and tragic. Thousands of people were killed, setting off a long period of instability and a weakened central government. Ultimately, some of those who were excluded from participation in the political process formed armed groups that came to control large portions of the countryside. A full peace remains illusive.

Also haunting were presidential campaign posters of Luis Galán, assassinated during his 1989 campaign by drug cartels collaborating with corrupt political and security officials. (Galán’s son Carlos is mayor of Bogotá today.)

Contemporary Art

A range of contemporary Colombian art is for sale at Casas Reigner. Unfortunately, the gallery was closed during my visit.

There are over 20 galleries in the San Felipe Art District, a hub of the current art scene in Bogotá; two of note are SGR Galería and Galería Beta.   Events and galleries are available at San Felipe Distrito Creativo.

Zebra Fisgona Tours

Aleja and Juani, partners and founders of Zebra Fisgona Tours,  are simply wonderful. I initially planned three days of local-friend tours.  But I extended to four, then six days, as I learned more of Bogotá’s  history and saw it reflected in the daily life of residents.

In a visit to Café Cultor, we sampled coffees from the many diverse and distinctive regions of Colombia. The best Colombian coffees used to be exported; but now they are available domestically. And we sampled chocolate from various regions; I was fond of a spicy Amazonian chocolate that packed quite a buzz.

With Aleja and Tim at Café Cultor

We rode bikes through city streets on a Sunday Ciclovía, the day when many city streets are reserved for bicycles. The city’s bike share service is a great way to get around, any day of the week.

We ate wonderful traditional and contemporary cuisine in a variety of restaurants cozy and fancy.

We explored the vast Catedral de Sal, the church built at the salt mine of Zipaquirá, northwest of the city. The stations of the cross, and the naves, are carved into the salt and rock over 300 meters underground. It’s a remarkable engineering and artistic achievement.

We joined Bogotá residents high above the city, at the Monserrate Sanctuary, as they marked the last days of the year. Montserrate Sanctuary is at an altitude over 10,000’, and there was a layer of clouds partially obscuring the city below when we rode up in the cable car. But it was still a breathtaking sight.

Throughout our six days together, Aleja was a fun, empathetic and creative guide. The first three days Aleja was patient with my Spanish, and the last three went well in English as I was joined by my friend Tim from St. Petersburg.

On their website, they say “if you are looking for real connection with locals and heartwarming memories, you are in the right place.”

I completely agree, and recommend them highly.

Navidad

CNN named Bogotá the world’s second-best place to visit for Christmas this year, and they city was full of Christmas lights from Monserrate down to the streets and parks. When Lanvender took me to the Parque Nacional, we joined families eating street food and strolled through the illuminated Christmas scenes. I resisted the efforts of a street comic to pull me into his act; I struggle enough with my Spanish without trying to talk in front of a hundred or so onlookers!

On another day, Lavender took Tim and me to the Parque de los Novios (Lovers Park) and the Jardín Botánico (Botanical Gardens), whose massive greenhouses display plants from the many different climates of this incredibly diverse country.

With Lavender, Parque de los Novios

Future Travel?

I’m anxious to get back in the studio, but am also thinking about future travel. In the next few months I hope to visit Germany and Spain. My next Latin American visit will likely be to Peru.